One Vogue food writer takes a stab at finding the perfect chef's knife.
Here is a roster of the knives I own: a ten-inch Wüsthof bought fifteen years ago after a knife-skills class, where I was tricked into believing that extremely large knives are easier to use than small ones; assorted paring knives bought for €9 a pop at markets in France; a heavy, pricey bread knife; a boning knife sharpened to resemble a prison shiv; an eight-inch Global santoku, which I don’t remember buying; and an eight-inch Togiharu, the house brand of the famed Japanese knife store...
I had learned a good deal—not least what a gorgeous anthropological kaleidoscope is the universe of knifecraft! Where else do survivalists commingle with Japanese craftsmen, back-to-the-landers, and urban entrepreneurs? Who, then, would teach me? There was a new master, she reluctantly admitted. He was named Vincent. But I could not speak or write to Vincent. I was directed to send a proposed meeting schedule instead.
The knife start-up Misen, which, along with several other new companies, offers high-quality steel knives for about half the price of Korin’s mid-range knives, shows the company’s founder slicing full plastic bottles of water in half like an ancient samurai. Gramercy Tavern’s chef, Michael Anthony, advised that I embark on more practical trials: Slice and dice a Korean pickle; do some basic butchery; thinly carve seared meat.
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