A new book aims to dismantle the fallacy that fresh milk is a nutritional necessity.
” —she positions her book as sui generis. “No previous history of drinking-milk as a major modern industry has examined the ramifications of what is now known about lactase persistence or nonpersistence—often popularly called lactose tolerance or intolerance—in either the remote past or the present,” she writes.
What follows are three hundred pages dense with scrupulous research, amounting to a largely persuasive attempt on Mendelson’s part to engage the layperson in sharing her anger at this state of affairs. Mendelson whizzes through centuries of history as she charts the gradual spread of “dairying,” from its origins in the prehistoric Near East and Western Asia, where milk carried associations with goddesses, to its prevalence in northern Europe.
Mendelson’s avalanche of facts may make one’s head spin in these early chapters, but the scope of her research is impressive. What lightens the mood is the cast of characters she assembles as she approaches modern times, when fresh milk becomes a mark of status and an often unquestioned beacon of health.
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