Call it what you will, but remember this: A pavlova is just a kiss.
We utilized egg yolks and egg whites in equal excess allowing plenty of room for airy sponge cakes and ethereal meringues. My grandmother’sThe Schaum Torte recipe was duly noted with her Book-of-the-Month-Club bookmark.
Kisses were considered after-school cookies, while the schaum torte was more of a birthday showstopper. With the Sunbeam mixer set at the dizzying speed of three, egg whites morphed into meringue with ease, glossy and blindingly white, fragrant with vanilla. Occasionally, Jessie would add a handful of sweetened, flaked coconut to the meringue.
Baked in a cavernous springform pan that had once belonged to my grandmother’s mother, the torte required one hour with the oven on and two hours with the oven off. Earlier versions featured a ring of kisses circling the finished dessert, hence the name. Jessie, always practical, thought fussing with the kisses was overkill and eliminated them. When cooled, the over-sized meringue was coaxed from its pan, carefully split in half, generously filled with strawberries, bananas, and whipped cream.
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