Between bites of overstuffed tacos and a large serving of ceviche with plump lime-marinated shrimp, she sips from a towering orange melon agua fresca — completely comfortable at her favorite neighborhood taqueria.
Editor’s note: In this recurring profile series, SFGATE food editor Steph Rodriguez sits down with Bay Area chefs and those with deep ties to the restaurant industry at their favorite seedy dives, cozy mom-and-pop spots and beloved family-owned taquerias. Over deliciously cheap bites, ‘Did You Eat?’ offers a new perspective into the lives of the region’s most talented tastemakers.
“Should we do the cheers taco now?” Feybesse asks, holding a pudgy flour tortilla filled with fried fish. “I’ll do this one. It looks massive. Alright! Yeah, cheers! Bon appetit.” “I felt so bad being on the show, in a way, because I left my kids. I left my newborn son. He was like 1 years old, and I felt like, ‘Should I even be here?’” she said. “To not speak to them so often was insane. And you can see that I really missed them and that can weigh on you, for sure.
“Paul is straight-up production, and he’s a machine. He’s just as precise as a robot. That’s why all the stuff you see online is pretty much how it looks in real life,” she said. “That’s the beauty of Tarts de Feybesse, is it’s beautiful and it’s gorgeous and it’s delicious, and we want to keep that. That’s the spirit.
Determined as ever even after Masa’s closure, Feybesse took a one-way flight to Copenhagen in 2013. Not interested in a stage or internship, she ended up landing the job she craved at the seminal Scandinavian restaurant Geranium under chef-owner Rasmus Kofoed, who, in 2016, was the first chef in Denmark to earn three Michelin stars.
Geranium is where Feybesse’s love for cooking evolved, challenging her to dig deep during those 16-hour days in the kitchen. She lived for the rush and the indescribable feeling of accomplishment after each dinner service. Plus, a budding romance between her and Paul only added to the magic she experienced in Copenhagen. But it didn’t last.
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